Sophia was four. She had brown hair and very strong opinions about gelato.
Amelia was almost two. She had no opinions about anything yet — except that she wanted whatever Sophia had.
"We're going on a big trip," Sophia told her stuffed rabbit, Flopsy. "Italy. Switzerling. London. That's three countries."
"Twees," said Amelia. She was holding up four fingers.
Italy smelled like coffee and old stones.
The first thing they did was eat gelato. Sophia got pistachio because she heard Dad say it was the best. Amelia got strawberry because it was pink.
Amelia got it on her nose. Then on her ear. Then, somehow, in her hair.
In Pisa, there was a tower. A very famous tower. A very leaning tower — like someone had bumped it and never fixed it. Sophia thought this was the funniest thing she'd ever seen.
"All the best things are a bit broken," said Mum.
Dad lifted Sophia up onto his shoulders so she could pretend to hold the tower up in the photo. She took her job very seriously. Amelia stood right in front of the camera and wouldn't move.
This is also very her.

Then they drove. And they drove. Up and up and up.
The road had so many bends that Sophia counted them. She got to eleven before she lost count. The mountains were so tall their tops disappeared into clouds.
"Yes," said Dad.
"Do clouds feel wet?"
"Yes."
"Like a bath?"
"A very cold bath with no walls."
Amelia fell asleep before they reached the top, her head lolling against her car seat. At the summit, Dad carried her outside into the thin cold air. Somewhere far below, the whole world was green.
"She missed it," said Sophia.
"She'll come back one day," said Mum. "And she'll have no idea she's been here before."
Sophia thought about this for a very long time.

London had red buses. And Big Ben — very big, very loud when it bonged. And rain.
It rained immediately.
He spread his arms out wide like wings and tried to be a human umbrella over Sophia and Amelia while Mum laughed and pulled out her actual umbrella.
Sophia found a puddle. Amelia found the same puddle twelve seconds later.
They looked at the palace where the King lives. There were guards in very tall furry hats who were not allowed to laugh even when Amelia waved at them with both hands and yelled "HI! HI! HI MAN!"
One of them blinked. Maybe.

That night, they were all squished into one hotel bed. It was a big bed — but there were four of them, and Amelia sleeps diagonally, which takes up more room than you'd think.
"Best trip ever," said Dad.
"Best trip ever," said Sophia.
"Bep twip evah," said Amelia.
Everyone laughed. Then Sophia was asleep. Then Amelia was asleep. Then Mum. Then Dad — with two small girls somehow on top of him, because that's just how it goes.
Outside the window, London was still going. Buses and lights and all of it.
But in room 214, everyone was home.
